A Culinary Paradise
Hawai’i, commonly described as “paradise on Earth,” is home to over a million residents and serves as a popular tourist destination. Aside from the breathtaking views, sandy beaches, and tropical climate, Hawai’i is also unique for something that is a part of our lifestyle every day: food. Whether a tourist or a resident, we often become so entranced in what this state has to offer that we take this crucial necessity for granted. In this state, food is supplied through an industry that battles between its local producers and producers from the U.S. mainland. While it seems that the issue of getting food to our table is handled through a combination of local suppliers and imports, many do not seem to realize the many benefits that both consumers and the state as a whole can be rewarded with by supporting the local food and agricultural industry. Hawai’i’s local food and agricultural industry should be supported because local farms and restaurants not only produce food that expresses our local “melting pot” culture through fresh, quality, “island-grown” products, but they also play a role in the state’s local economy by practicing sustainability, reducing the need for additional work and costs to keep us fed, and by helping the state to build a steady and secure supply of food.
Hawai’i’s local food and produce are perhaps one of the biggest ways in which the culture of Hawai’i is represented to both its residents and visitors. Food plays a huge role in culture, as it is “tightly linked to people’s cultural identities…” (Hasty et al.). In the case of Hawai’i’s food and produce, they go back to the history of the Native Hawaiians. The Native Hawaiians sustainably lived off the land and ocean, growing a multitude of crops “including kalo (taro), uala (sweet potato), maiʻa (banana), kō (sugarcane) and ʻulu (breadfruit) … [and gathered] a variety of fish” (“Hawaii Regional Cuisine”). All that the Native Hawaiians had grown off the land and gathered from the ocean still proudly stand and represent the culture today as they “were all standard ingredients in a simple Hawaiian meal, and many of them appear on menus in classical as well as new, fanciful renditions as chefs pay homage to the original cuisine of the islands” (“Hawaii Regional Cuisine”).
While food has its links to cultural identities, food is also “shared within and moved between communities, adapting to changing circumstances and settings” (Hasty et al.). The culture surrounding Hawai’i’s food began to change when new cuisines were introduced by people coming to the islands in the late 18th century. The cuisine continued to evolve as plantation laborers from all around East Asia and Europe arrived in the mid-19th century. With the large ethnic diversity present in the islands, “it was only a matter of time before the culinary creations of these cohabitating cultures would interact with each other, exemplified in dishes that are now called ‘local…’” (“Hawaii Regional Cuisine”). Today, the ethnic diversity intermingling is what is known as the “melting pot,” which is what Hawai’i is known for people and culture-wise. Along with the different ethnicities coming together in the islands, the cuisine does the same too, representing the multitude of cuisines from each of the diversities that make up Hawai’i’s melting pot today. Through supporting the food and agricultural industry in Hawai’i, local farms and businesses receive the patronage to continue to promote the culture that Hawai’i is known for. Local farms would be able to continue growing the produce that Native Hawaiians lived off which would both preserve the history of how the Native Hawaiians lived off the land and what they incorporated into their meals in the past as well as provide consumers the opportunity to incorporate the same home-grown ingredients into their dishes for both residents and visitors to experience.
Hawai’i’s local produce also holds the quality of being fresh. The state’s agricultural industry competes heavily with producers from the U.S. mainland. Daniel Ko, a local farmer who worked in the industry for 35 years, is one of the many farmers who deal with the challenge of competing with producers from the mainland. Ko mentions that the “west coast can offer quality produce at a cheaper price but [local produce has] the freshness” (DowntoEarthHawaii, 02:33-02:39). Researchers Xun Xu, Matthew Loke, and PingSun Leung, who are affiliated with the Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Management at the University of Hawai’i at Manoa, conducted a study to explore the pricing of fresh lettuce in Hawai’i’s local market, acknowledged that “many consumers buy local foods because such foods are considered fresher and more flavorful; the farm-to-market distance is much shorter and local produce is harvested closer to ripening” (Xu, et al.). By supporting the local food and agricultural industry, businesses can continue to provide consumers with fresh and flavorful produce that would perhaps beat imported produce in terms of quality. This all ties to culture as this produce is essentially the “fruits of the land” that both residents and tourists are experiencing when they consume locally produced food. With Hawai’i already being a prime tourist destination, Hawai’i can also proudly showcase its fresh and flavorful “fruits of the land” through the locally produced crops and dishes which can make tourist visits to the island filled with more of an enjoyable experience.
One point that a lot of times is underestimated is that the local food and agricultural industry provides for and supports the community. Despite the already crucial role that the industry plays in providing for the community so that people don’t go hungry, local farms and restaurants also serve the community in other ways, even especially during times of struggle. Pam Miller, a Food and Nutrition Service administrator at the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), highlighted a moment where local farms were able to support the community during a time of struggle. When the Coronavirus pandemic struck a few years ago, many families were struggling to feed their children due to the economic struggle that the pandemic introduced. However, through efforts made by the USDA in conjunction with the Culinary Arts Department at Kapiolani Community College (KCC) and local farms, local farms would supply meat and produce to the college to cook meals to distribute to those who were in need during the pandemic. Miller reports that the team at KCC provided “1,200 meals a day for distribution in the USDA Summer Food Service Program” (Miller). All of those meals were distributed throughout the community to help feed those who were struggling to afford enough food during the pandemic. These acts of service also hit on parts of Hawai’i’s culture. One portion that makes up the culture in the state would be the whole concept of hospitality. Just like how hospitality is already showcased to those visiting the islands, hospitality is also carried out through these acts of care and service just like the one Miller presented. The local food and agriculture does need support to continue upholding both their role of providing for the community and carrying out hospitality to those in need, because if local businesses in the industry continue to suffer from lost income, like what happened to many of them when the pandemic struck, they will eventually shut down and won’t be able to provide others with the flexibility to use local produce easily for efforts similar to Miller’s example or for feeding the community in general.
Supporting the local food and agriculture industry in Hawai’i also has its benefits in supporting the local economy as well. While the produce that the state imports may be cheaper and of decent quality, many additional costs are also factored in which makes importing something that isn’t as economically viable for the state. According to a plan titled the “Increased Food Security and Food Self-Sufficiency Strategy ‘’ by the Hawai’i Department of Business Economic Development and Tourism along with the Hawai’i Department of Agriculture, the state roughly imports “85-90% [of the state’s food, which] in 2004-2005 amounted to $3.7 billion” (2). Given today’s current costs as well as the increased population and demand, that amount might be significantly higher. The plan also highlighted the following:
“Assuming that 85% of the food we consume is imported, this translates to $3.1 billion leaving our state. Replacing just 10% of the food we currently import would amount to approximately $313 million. Assuming a 30% farm share, $94 million would be realized at the farm-gate, which would generate an economy-wide impact of an additional $188 million in sales, $47 million in earnings, $6 million in state tax revenues, and more than 2,300 jobs” (Hawai’i Department of Business Economic Development and Tourism, 2).
The plan emphasizes that a lot of money is spent in importing these goods because not only is the state paying the price for the goods itself, but there are also the costs associated with shipping and distribution. To ship things from the mainland to Hawai’i takes a lot in terms of fuel usage and the efforts put in to ensure that the produce doesn’t arrive in the state badly. Because of the large amount that the state needs to pay, this would factor into Hawai’i’s cost of living, where the cost to live in the state will only go higher as the demand increases and if nothing is being done locally to help keep money circulating within the state. Through supporting the local food and agricultural industry, the demand to import goods reduces, which can significantly reduce the amount of money spent on imports and can also keep money in circulation locally.
Local farmer Daniel Ko even mentions that “every dollar that’s generated and stays in Hawai’i helps to generate numerous jobs in the community” (DowntoEarthHawaii, 03:15-03:20). The patronage that local farms and restaurants can greatly assist the business in making improvements. With the money generated in state from local food and produce, this can allow the producers to invest in more workers and capital, which would help increase production while reducing the cost of production in other areas of the business. Businesses in the local food and agricultural industry would help reduce the amount of food that the state imports while filling in that gap with fresh and local produce, all while generating numerous jobs and income for the local economy.
Despite the benefits that supporting the local food and agricultural industry brings in terms of the local economy, the problem with residents, tourists, and the state having to deal with such high costs still remains. Perhaps the reason for that is because local goods tend to be more pricier compared to imported goods. Erik Kain wrote an article titled “If You Buy Local, You’ll Have Less Money to Spend Locally.” Kain argues that spending money locally won’t necessarily help the local economy, particularly because consumers have less purchasing power because the price of local goods is higher than imported goods. Kain provides an example of where a person would have $1000 to spend on whatever they want. Kain states that “If you shop at big boxes and online, you can make all your purchases for $750. If you shop at local stores you can make all your purchases for $950” (Kain). While it may be true that the cheaper costs may appeal to consumers more because they can get more for a cheaper price which may hinder consumers from wanting to purchase local products instead, the problem is that many consumers do not realize the economical benefits of supporting local businesses. If people aren’t willing to make the investment to help keep money circulating locally, then the cost of living is only going to get higher as the demand for imported goods increases. Eventually, should local farms and restaurants not generate enough income to stay afloat, they will close which would only increase the amount of how much the state needs to import since there will be less local establishments to source from. If consumers made the investment to provide patronage to local businesses, their money will go a long way in helping the business to improve and reduce costs on their end while also benefiting the state as a whole since there will be less demand for imported goods.
As food is something that many take for granted in the state, many don’t often realize what could happen should we get cut off from the U.S. mainland. Being a chain of islands in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, being sustainable is vital to the state’s food security and survival of all residents and visitors given the state’s remote location. For many years, concerns about our state’s food supply never really bothered the general public, as food could be easily picked up from grocery stores, or a bite can be grabbed from the nearest restaurant.
However, when the Coronavirus pandemic shocked the nation in March of 2020, the state was hit with a number of shortages, causing panic and concern among residents. In the “Increased Food Security and Food Self-Sufficiency Strategy’’ plan by the Hawai’i Department of Business Economic Development and Tourism along with the Hawai’i Department of Agriculture, they mention that “about 85-90% of Hawai’i’s food is imported which makes it particularly vulnerable to natural disasters and global events that might disrupt shipping and the food supply.” Should the state be cut off from the outside world, Hawai’i would only be able to feed 10-15% of its population. This all ties back to the economic perspective of things, where by supporting the local food and agricultural industry, sustainability is being promoted as the money local businesses receive will provide incentives for local farmers, ranchers, and vendors to continue producing goods which in turn will help drive down the demand for imported goods should more consumers turn to local sources.
While sustainability is crucial to the survival on this island, achieving 100% sustainability isn’t feasible as there will still be things that we cannot produce locally and would have to import from outside sources. However, it would still be much better to achieve sustainability greater than the 10% Hawai’i currently has. In the event we do lose imports and connections to the outside world, more people would still be able to be fed and fewer people would worry about where their next meal will come from.
On top of sustainability, supporting the local food and agricultural industry will also ensure that the state has steady sources of local produce that will help ensure the state’s food security. The perspective of this would be in terms of the land. Hawai’i only has so much land that can be used by its people. This limits the flexibility of what the government and industry can do within the state. When the Coronavirus pandemic struck the state, many businesses, such as restaurants and farms, were lost as a result of the inability to make sufficient earnings needed to cover the costs of operations given the economic fallout that the pandemic introduced. When these businesses shut down, the farmland and pastures are lost along with it. Researchers Ryan Perroy and Eszter Collier from the University of Hawai’i at Hilo notes one of the industry’s significant losses in terms of land which would be in “the central plain located alongside the H-2 Highway: a subdivision development, occurring on what had been 359 acres of diversified croplands [which is also known as the Koa Ridge development]” (8). Alongside that is the major development along Kualakai Parkway in East Kapolei, where new town housing and businesses are being developed on what used to be farmland. While it isn’t bad to put the lost farmland to use to accommodate more people, in terms of Hawai’i’s food security, this could negatively impact it because when more people come to reside in the state, that’s more people to feed. Should the state see the need for more farmlands and pastures, getting that land back wouldn’t be possible as the development on those lands would be irreversible.
By providing patronage to the businesses that make up the state’s local food and agricultural industry, this money will help these businesses stay open and highlight their need for them to still be around, because in turn, they will continue to stick around providing locally sourced goods to feed the population. As long as those essential businesses stay open, their land won’t be lost and perhaps, businesses like farms and pastures would also be able to expand on their existing land, contributing more to the food security of the state.
Supporting the local food and agricultural industry can provide many benefits for everyone: the local businesses themselves, the state and its economy, and even for the consumers too. By supporting local businesses, money stays circulated in the economy which in turn will help the businesses to stay open while giving them the opportunity to invest which would help drive down their costs. In addition, the state wouldn’t also have to rely heavily on imports, which in turn can drive the state’s sustainability up and the cost of living down. The only thing now is that consumers need to be willing to make this investment in supporting the local businesses, as doing so will shape the future of the state from here on out.
Works Cited
Carpenter, Mark. “By Working Together, Pandemic-Battered Farmers Hope to Grow State’s Agricultural Footprint.” Https://Www.hawaiinewsnow.com, Hawaii News Now, 10 Nov. 2021, https://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/2021/11/10/by-working-together-pandemic-battered-farmers-hope-grow-states-agricultural-footprint/.
DowntoEarthHawaii. “Local Hawaii Farms: A Day at Ko Farms.” YouTube, 19 July 2020, www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP_O_3CqItE.
Hasty, Jennifer, et al. “14.3 Food and Cultural Identity.” Introduction to Anthropology, OpenStax, Houston, Texas, 2022, https://openstax.org/books/introduction-anthropology/pages/14-3-food-and-cultural-identity. Accessed 19 Apr. 2023.
“Hawaii Regional Cuisine.” Go Hawaii, Hawaii Tourism Authority, 16 Mar. 2022, https://www.gohawaii.com/experiences/culinary/regional-cuisine.
“Increased Food Security and Food Self-Sufficiency Strategy.” Hawai’i Department of Business Economic Development and Tourism, Oct. 2012.
Kain, Erik. “If You Buy Local You’ll Have Less Money to Spend Locally.” Forbes Magazine, 22 Apr. 2012, www.forbes.com/sites/erikkain/2011/11/26/if-you-buy-local-youll-have-less-money-to-spend-locally/?sh=431bae3c7f12.
Miller, Pam. “Supporting Local Farmers to Feed Children in Hawaii.” USDA, 29 July 2021, www.usda.gov/media/blog/2020/05/21/supporting-local-farmers-feed-children-hawaii.
Perroy, Ryan, and Eszter Collier. “2020 Update to the Hawai’i Statewide Agricultural Land Use Baseline: O’ahu, Hawai’i Island, and Kaua’i.” University of Hawai’i at Hilo, 2020.
Xu, Xun, et al. “Is There a Price Premium for Local Food? The Case of the Fresh Lettuce Market in Hawaii.” Agricultural and Resource Economics Review, vol. 44, no. 1, 2015, pp. 110–123., doi:10.1017/S1068280500004652.